Une Bohemienne à Paris

Mon Banc

2008-07-01T11:02:00.000-07:00

This is my favorite place in Paris. This is where I go when I am able to get up early enough to walk the half mile between the FIAP and Parc Montsouris. I sit on that green bench in front of the puppet theater, and I write to you.

La Vie est Belle

2008-06-30T09:24:00.000-07:00

Sorry to have neglected updating for a week and for leaving off on such a sour note. Really, I have been enjoying Paris very much, which is why I’ve had so little time to run down to the local park that has free wifi.

In the time that this blog has been idle, I have:

I have also discovered that my innate charm appeals to a wide range of Parisians, as last night, I was catcalled by an eight-year-old while having an after dinner walk with my friend.

Je Suis Pleine

2008-06-22T11:46:00.001-07:00

No, not really.

It’s a common mistake for students of French to use the auxiliary verb être (to be) instead of avoir (to have), when translating phrases like “I’m finished” and “I’m full.” This has humorous consequences.

If you were to say “Je suis fini” to a waiter, you would have just told him/her that you are (metaphorically) dead. If your waiter is a true Parisian, they will laugh at you in the face before taking your plate away.

Just to be clear, this has not happened to me. I say as little as possible to waiters here, as they are frequently (with many exceptions, of course) THE absolute rudest people possible. I’m not sure if this is a cause or a condition of the fact that tipping is not compulsory in France.

Now, what if you’re at your new French boyfriend’s house for dinner and his mother is a terrible cook? You want to be polite, so you take a few bites, smile widely, and coo “Je suis pleine.” Hopefully, his Catholic grandma is not there too, because you just told the whole room that you are pregnant.

I say all this to get to my nearly unrelated point that approximately one out of every four twenty-something, Parisian women I see is pregnant. By the size of their bellies, I’d say it was either a very cold November, or an extra festive Christmas.

This gave me an idea.

In my constant quest not to be propositioned, I have been wearing a ring on my left hand and scowling enough to make my face stick. This does not work. The predator has a keen eye, and zero inhibitions.

So, I decided to start acting pregnant—patting my belly a lot, wearing the front of my pants low, and always keeping some air in my lungs. You’d think that if it wasn’t an indication of couple-hood, pregnancy would at least decrease desirability.

I realized when I was pulled over by two male ambulance drivers this afternoon that this does not work any better. The only (very irritating) solution is to keep one of my male trip companions around whenever I leave the hostel. A single girl (or even group of girls) will always be viewed as a potential pick-up.

Des Mauvaises Choses, des Bonnes Choses

2008-06-20T15:51:00.000-07:00

As the seriously overpriced shuttle wisked us off to Beauvais to catch our plane to Stockholm, I was beginning to have serious doubts about whether or not I really wanted to go through with the trip to Sweden. By the time we had landed, and boarded yet another ridiculous bus, I was petrified with fear to be in an expensive country whose language I do not know. That and, I discovered my camera screen had broken.

Then something amazing happened. Football.

I wasn't sure if our group was going to be able to catch the Turkey-Croatia quarter final game, but we saw several groups of people shouting and waving flags, so we figured we'd be able to follow them to a local bar with a TV. Instead, we found ourselves in one of the city squares in front of a giant screen projecting the game to at least 2,000 exuberant Turkish supporters. Fish and chips in my belly, a semi-familiar language in my ears, and I was feeling much better.

The best part of the night was that Turkey won. After pulling off an impossible tie in the last thirty seconds of overtime stoppage, Turkey crushed Croatia in penalty kicks. Even without pictures, I know I will remember tonight forever.

Un peu de Salsa

2008-06-19T00:13:00.000-07:00

I try to keep an open mind, but I never really expected to eat a burrito in France.

Last night, however, I did just that. I might also add that it was free, and pretty darn good for a French burrito, except that the cheese was certainly not right.

I'll put up a video of the salsa dancing when I have time.

La Tour Eiffel

2008-06-17T04:51:00.000-07:00

I'd have to say I'm with the French on this one-- the Eiffel Tower is pretty ugly during the day. Set against the bright backdrop of the Champs de Mars, it doesn't look half bad, but with the low-lying old-style city below, it's downright garish.

However, when it starts to get dark, the rest of the city fades away, and the tower really becomes glamorous.

You could even say it sparkles. :)

Versailles

2008-06-15T07:38:00.000-07:00

Deux Musées et le Marais

2008-06-13T00:33:00.000-07:00

In the past two days, we have visited two art museums, seen four or five different neighborhoods and walked several miles (both intentionally and unintentionally). For some reason, we keep visiting museums after lunch, which makes them extra boring because I’m so sleepy.

On Wednesday, we went to the Musée d’Orsay, which houses primarily Impressionist paintings. It is my personal opinion that this museum is only worth about twenty minutes of your time. Just long enough to take in the marvelous architecture of the interior, see the sculptures on the main floor, and run up to the Impressionist wing just to take a look at how much paint these guys used. Layers upon layers of thick, toxic, oil paint. It’s mind-blowing. Then, stop by the gift shop after your twenty minutes are up, and pick up some posters, which are just as beautiful, in my opinion. Or better yet, Google image “Monet” or “Impressionism” and you will have approximately the same experience without the entrance fee.

The Musée Picasso, on the other hand, must be seen to be believed. I’m not even particularly fond of Picasso, but there is so much depth to his work that it looks completely different when you are in the room with it. It is also in a very beautiful location—an old house actually. These old-money collectors didn’t want to pay several million in taxes, so they donated the mansion, and the art, to the French government. Lucky for us, I guess.

Des Leçons

2008-06-11T23:48:00.000-07:00

I am learning some very important things here in France.

1. Wifi service is intended for the public areas, not bedrooms, so when I am downstairs it is actually really fast.

2. French people are much less anxious and busy than Americans, but they are also much less friendly. They're very patient with my limited French, but they don't reach out and try to help if I don't ask questions. So, it's better to flounder like an idiot than sit quietly and plead for assistance with my eyes.

3. To look French, all one has to do is squint his/her eyes and scowl faintly.

Air France et mon premier jour a Paris

2008-06-10T07:14:00.000-07:00

June 9, 2008 9:48pm/June 10, 2008 5:48 am

As I’m typing, I am three hours away from Paris, somewhere in between Greenland and Iceland. The past six hours have gone very smoothly. The plane is nice and roomy, and there are only two people in my three-person row down the center of the plane. We leave the middle TV screen on Géo Vision, and I can’t help but take pictures of the screen every time it changes. I love maps.

So far, I have slept a little, watched two movies, and had the best airplane food of my life.

We even got little baguettes and a single serve wedge of camembert. I heart Air France.

I’ve been having a great time talking with everyone in the group, and I finally think I know everyone’s name. It’s quiet now though, so I think I’ll try to go back to sleep.

June 10, 2008, 7:16am/ June 10, 2008, 4:16pm

I am very tired. Partially because I've had very little sleep, and partially because I've already been walking around a lot.

It's very warm. Hardly a cloud in the sky all day.

I purchased a ten hour, use-as-you-like pass from the company that provides wireless internet to the building. It wasn't terribly expensive, but it works very poorly in my room, so I'm going to have to try and find something better. In the meantime, I am here, I am safe, I am having a good time.

La Nuit Blanche

2008-06-09T03:41:00.000-07:00

I started my day at 3am, in hopes that I will be able to outsmart jet lag and sleep on the airplane.

I have successfully slept in a plane once, and even then, it was only for a half an hour or so. My fear in sleeping so little is that I will not sleep on the plane, in which case, I will arrive in Paris at 8am, having been awake for nearly twenty-four hours. Imagine my excitement.

My bags still aren't packed, I'm having trouble getting one of my perscriptions, and I'm worried about sleeping.

Notre Reunion Finale

2008-06-02T20:45:00.000-07:00

Today was our Paris group's last meeting before we fly.

I got a nice Rick Steves guide, and a packing list (yay!). I think that was the most helpful thing, although I'm pretty sure now that my suitcase will weigh 400 pounds.

I also found out who my roommate will be. I don't know her, but I'm sure I will soon.

Les Valises

2008-05-30T15:17:00.000-07:00

Speaking of packing, I'm scared out of my wits.

How am I supposed to fit enough clothes, shoes, shampoo, and security blankets to last a month into one check-in bag?

I mean, I suppose I could bring two bags, but there's still the off chance that I'll space and leave my favorite sprocket-regulating widget 5,000 miles and a freakin' ocean away from home.

So far, I've only decided on the bottoms I will be bringing, but it already seems like too much. Oh Geez.

My packing list, as it stands--

Carry-on:

power converter
laptop
toothbrush and paste
x2 clean undies
laptop
webcam
digital camera
french/english dictionary
french verb book
french grammar book

Check-in:

shampoo and conditioner
utility knife
day pack
x12 clean undies
x2 skirts
black pants
denim capris
x9 pairs of socks
flip-flops
bathing suit
some shirts I don't hate???

To Buy:

Cute and comfy walking shoes

That's where it stands. I know I'm missing at least half of the essentials, but at least I'm starting to get organized. What am I missing? Oh right, my sanity.

Petite Introduction

2008-05-29T18:50:00.000-07:00

I am getting on a plane in ten days, sixteen hours, and 7 minutes. When I get off the plane, ten hours and ten time zones later, I will be in Europe for the first time. I will be in Paris for nearly the entire month of June, and I have recently decided to take a side trip to Sweden!

I have waited years for this opportunity, so I suppose another ten days, sixteen hours, and four minutes can't hurt. I need time to pack anyway. That's a scary thought.

I wish I could take all of you with me, but I'll be taking lots and lots of pictures, so, now would be the time to invest in high-speed internet.